UBW: Dancing in Caracas

This is Meghan, and I'm not quite sure where to begin.

My Spanish is getting better much more quickly than I thought it would (Apollo does not equal a pollo). I’m in love with the weather, and I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed with information.

After a very welcome late start on Wednesday, the company arrived at La Universidad de Simon Bolivar at lunch time and was greeted with an interview request by the college's TV station. This officially begins our first improvisation for the day. Later, what we thought would be a technique-based master class, becomes a community-building workshop, ending with a highly diverse array of student-choreographed phrases.

Then the real schooling began!

La Muga dance group presented three traditional dances from different regions of the country. In bright red, green-blue, and orange costumes, these young men and women shook, twisted, "twirked", turned and threw their hips in ways I had never before seen. I think it’s safe to say we were all floored at their precision and isolation. They danced in couples, men and women flirtatiously weaving their way in and around each other, literally pushing other couples aside to take the floor. I watched and waited with chills, intrigued by the legacy of these dances from the African slaves who created them, and eager with anticipation to try them myself.

Luckily a workshop immediately following the performance gave all of us Urban Bush Women a chance to shake what our mamas gave us and in true Venezuelan style. We formed a large circle and went at it, ladies shoving señoritas, caballeros pushing men, couples kicking out duets, trios fighting for the spotlight, everyone excited to show off their hip swivels. We finished feeling like we had been dancing for hours and wanting more. We knew the Muga dancers were salsa aficionados and convinced them to stay for an impromptu lesson. It became a dance party of Afro-Cuban salsa and Venezuelan danzas tradicionales.

I’m not sure if I’ve ever smiled so much. Where has Venezuela been all my life?

Here! Dancing. The first school of modern dance (referred to here as contemporary) was opened in Venezuela by Grishka Holguin, a Mexican dancer who saw Caracas as the Paris of South America. Reinaldo, the director of the contemporary dance company, Mudanza, shared this history with us and the evolution of Venezuela’s many dances in a conversation with us Thursday morning. He demonstrated some of the different movements too.

Key facts:

• Traditional dance does not equal national dance.
• Many traditional dances have roots in celebrations of San Juan el Baptiste, or Saint John the Baptist.
• There are over 1,300 dance companies in Venezuela.
• Contemporary dance is a mezcla (mix) of what we understand of modern dance techniques (Graham, Limon, etc.) and is making its way to the streets.

Apparently most of our Spanish is quickly improving. Each one of us spent the rest of Thursday practicing our Batty Moves raps, adding cameos of hopefully well-timed Spanish phrases. We performed them as the finale to an outdoor event on campus featuring four amazing pieces from local contemporary companies, Mudanza and Pisorrojo.

Here’s a sampling of the work we saw: 

• Two women with nearly four foot long braids danced with their hair tied to a wall behind them.
• Two other dancers “blinded” audience members before performing a duet playing with sight and weight.
• Four street vending dancers called and coaxed the audience to buy their goods (and believe me, the dancing was good)
• and a cast of legs hidden by umbrellas teased us all in a cabaret-like show of striped stockings and heels.

The raps were a hit. The students laughed, clapped and hollered in our favor.

I’m charged for our first official repertory performance tomorrow. And yes, still feeling very much overwhelmed, but definitely looking forward to more.